# How to prepare your yard for sod

URL: https://hotivlandscaping.ca/guides/prepare-yard-for-sod/  
Updated: 2026-10-13  
By: Hotiv Landscaping, Markham, Ontario. Call or text (437) 684-2535.

**Short answer:** To prepare a yard for sod in Ontario, take out the old grass and weeds (the province bans glyphosate for cosmetic lawn use), grade the soil to fall away from the house about 1 foot per 50 feet, loosen it 4–6 inches deep and finish with at least 4 inches of topsoil, ideally 6. Rake it level, firm it, leave it about 1/2 inch below paths, and lay the sod within 24 hours of it being cut.

Sod gives you a finished lawn in an afternoon. How it looks a year later depends mostly on how you prepare your yard for sod beforehand. Purdue Extension's sod guide puts it plainly: a successful sod job comes down to soil preparation, grading and watering.

The sections below cover the parts people tend to get wrong, and the numbered steps further down go through the whole job in order. If you'd rather have a crew handle it, this prep is part of our [sod installation and lawn repair](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/services/sod-installation/) service in Markham.

## Key numbers

- Utility locate notice: At least 5 business days before digging
- Slope away from the house: 1 ft drop over 50 ft (roughly 2%)
- Topsoil under sod: At least 4 in, ideally 6 in
- Finished soil below paths: About 1/2 in
- Lay sod after it's cut: Within 24 hours

## What should you do before you start digging?

Book a utility locate. Ontario Dig Authority, which used to be called Ontario One Call, says a locate is required for any project that breaks ground, whatever the size or depth, and it's free.

Request it at least 5 business days before you dig. Then wait until the lines are marked before you bring in a sod cutter or tiller.

While you wait, measure the lawn area and send off a soil sample. Purdue Extension suggests testing at least a month ahead, taking soil from the top 4 to 6 inches in ten or more spots and mixing it together.

The result tells you the pH and whether you need lime or fertilizer, so you're not guessing.

## Do you have to remove the old grass first?

Yes. Sod needs to sit on soil so its roots can grow straight down into it.

*Image: A strip of old lawn cut loose and partly rolled back on bare soil, showing the grass, a layer of soil and a thick mat of roots. Old turf comes out roots and all, so the new sod sits on soil, not on last year's lawn*

Laid over old turf, it sits on a layer of grass, thatch and weeds, and every lump in the old lawn shows through. Where new sod replaces an existing lawn, the City of Toronto's own sodding spec has the old turf rototilled and topped with topsoil first.

> **Watch out:** In Ontario you can't take the shortcut the American extension guides suggest. Purdue and the University of Nebraska both recommend spraying perennial weeds with glyphosate before sodding, but the province's cosmetic pesticide ban lists glyphosate among the ingredients you can't use to kill weeds on lawns and gardens.

Cut the old lawn out instead. A rented sod cutter slices the turf off in strips with the roots attached, which is far faster than a spade on anything bigger than a few patches.

Dig out the roots of perennial weeds like quackgrass as you go. Michigan State Extension notes that tilling alone won't get rid of them.

## How should the yard be graded?

Away from the house, with no low spots. Purdue Extension recommends a slope away from the foundation for at least 15 feet in every direction, and says a 1 foot drop over 50 feet usually gives enough drainage.

*Image: Side view of a lawn sloping away from a house for at least 15 ft, with a dip filled back to grade. Grade the soil away from the house: about 1 ft of drop over 50 ft*

That works out to roughly 2%, or about 3.5 inches of fall over the first 15 feet.

Purdue also warns that slopes steeper than a 1 foot drop every 4 feet cause mowing and erosion problems. If part of your yard is that steep, it suggests a terrace, a retaining wall or a ground cover there instead of grass.

If you're moving a lot of soil, Purdue and the University of Nebraska both suggest doing it in this order:

1. Stockpile the existing topsoil to one side.
2. Grade the subsoil underneath.
3. Spread the topsoil back on top.

Heavy clay needs different handling. The University of Nebraska is clear that you shouldn't try to fix it by tilling in sand, since it ends up more compacted than before.

Work in compost instead: an inch of it, tilled in, then a second inch tilled in a different direction.

## How much topsoil do you need for sod?

At least 4 inches of good topsoil, and 6 inches if you can manage it. The sources line up closely:

| Source | Topsoil depth under sod |
|---|---|
| Michigan State University Extension | 3 to 4 inches minimum, 6 inches preferred |
| University of Nebraska | 4 inches minimum |
| City of Toronto sodding spec | 100 mm (about 4 inches) |

Purdue Extension calculates that about 19 cubic yards makes a 6 inch layer over 1,000 sq ft. Topsoil is usually sold by the cubic yard, so here's what common lawn sizes need if you're starting from bare subsoil:

| Lawn area | 4 inches (10 cm) deep | 6 inches (15 cm) deep |
|---|---|---|
| 250 sq ft (23 m²) | about 3 cubic yards | about 4.5 cubic yards |
| 500 sq ft (46 m²) | about 6 cubic yards | about 9 cubic yards |
| 1,000 sq ft (93 m²) | about 12 cubic yards | about 18.5 cubic yards |

For other sizes, area × depth in feet ÷ 27 gives cubic yards.

If your existing soil is decent and only a few inches deep, you only need to top it up to the target depth. So measure what you have before ordering.

> **Good to know:** Dig a small hole with a spade in a few spots around the yard. The side of each hole shows where the dark soil ends and the hard subsoil starts, which tells you how much topsoil you already have.

*Image: Square spade hole in a lawn showing a shallow band of dark topsoil over pale, dense clay subsoil. Where the dark topsoil ends and the hard subsoil starts*

## How level and firm should the soil be?

Firm enough to walk on without sinking more than about 1/2 inch. Purdue Extension uses that as the test: if your footprints go deeper, water it or roll it again.

After grading, give the soil about a week to settle, then rake the final grade. Rain or a good watering speeds the settling up.

The University of Nebraska points out that letting the soil settle now prevents dips and bumpy mowing later.

Keep the finished soil about 1/2 inch below walkways, driveways and interlock edges. The sod comes with a thin layer of soil attached, and that gap lets the grass finish flush with the hard surface instead of sticking up above it.

*Image: Cross-section at a paver edge with sod flush with the paver over topsoil and loosened subsoil. Leave the soil about 1/2 in low at paths so the sod finishes flush*

## When can you do this in Ontario?

Any time the ground isn't frozen. The University of Nebraska says sod can go down almost any time the soil isn't frozen, with early spring and early fall preferred because the lawn needs less watering.

Around the GTA, the City of Toronto's sodding spec treats November 1 to April 30 as the winter dormant period. So May to October is the dependable window, and April and November depend on the year.

> **Watch out:** Whatever the month, Michigan State Extension says to wait until the soil is dry enough to till without forming clods. Clay that's tilled wet dries into hard clods that won't rake level.

Our guide on the [best time to lay sod in Ontario](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/guides/best-time-to-lay-sod-ontario/) goes through each season, including October.

## What are the most common mistakes?

Most failed sod jobs trace back to one of these:

- Laying sod over the old lawn instead of cutting it out.
- Spreading a thin layer of topsoil (under about 3 inches) over hard ground without tilling it in. Michigan State Extension warns that a shallow layer like that blocks roots and drainage.
- Grading toward the house, or leaving low spots that turn into puddles.
- Tilling wet clay, which dries into hard clods.
- Skipping the settling time, so the surface sinks unevenly after the first heavy rain.
- Leaving the soil flush with paths, so the sod sits proud of the edges.
- Letting rolls sit on the driveway for a day or two in the sun. The University of Nebraska says sod should be laid within 24 hours of being harvested.

## What comes after the prep?

The sod goes down in a staggered brick pattern with the seams pushed tight. Then it's rolled lightly and watered thoroughly right away.

The first few weeks of watering matter as much as the prep. Our guide on [how often to water new sod](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/guides/new-sod-watering-care/) has a simple schedule.

If you live in Markham, the City's [water use by-law](https://www.markham.ca/about-city-markham/city-hall/bylaw/water-use) limits lawn watering from June 1 to September 30. Those limits don't apply to new sod for two months after it's laid.

If you're pricing the job, the [sod installation cost guide](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/guides/sod-installation-cost/) explains what drives the numbers. For thin lawns that don't need a full redo, [fall lawn care](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/guides/fall-lawn-care-ontario/) covers overseeding and patch repair.

## Should you prepare your yard for sod yourself?

A small patch or a narrow side strip is a fair weekend project with a spade, a rake and a wheelbarrow. A whole front or back yard is a different job.

You're stripping and hauling the old turf, wheeling several cubic yards of topsoil through a side gate and getting the grade right across the whole area. It's heavy, slow work, and the sod still has to go down the day it arrives. That's usually when hiring it out makes sense.

Our [sod installation](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/services/sod-installation/) service covers this prep: cutting out the old lawn, fixing the grade, adding topsoil where the ground is thin and laying the sod. We work across [Markham](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/areas/markham/) and nearby, including [Richmond Hill](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/areas/richmond-hill/) and [Stouffville](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/areas/stouffville/).

In this [sod, edging and mulch project](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/projects/sod-edging-mulch/), an overgrown, weedy yard was replaced with new sod, an interlock border edge and fresh mulch. If you'd like us to look at your yard, call [(437) 684-2535](tel:+14376842535) or [text us a few photos](sms:+14376842535?&body=Hi%20Hotiv%2C%20I%27d%20like%20a%20quote%20for%20) with your street or postal code.

## Step by step

1. **Book a utility locate.** Request a free locate through Ontario Dig Authority (formerly Ontario One Call) at least 5 business days before you dig. Wait until the lines are marked before stripping or tilling anything.
2. **Measure the area and test the soil.** Measure the lawn in square feet and add about 10% for cuts and waste. Send a soil sample for testing at least a month ahead so you know the pH and what to add.
3. **Strip the old grass and weeds.** Cut the old turf out in strips with a rented sod cutter or a flat spade, roots and all, and haul it away. Dig out the roots of perennial weeds like quackgrass as you go.
4. **Clear out debris.** Rake out rocks, roots, wood, concrete and other construction leftovers. Buried scrap gets in the way of roots and water, and a stump left in the ground rots and leaves a dip in the lawn later.
5. **Set the rough grade.** Shape the soil so it slopes away from the house for at least 15 feet, about a 1 foot drop over 50 feet, and fill any low spots that hold water.
6. **Loosen the soil.** Till or fork the soil 4 to 6 inches deep once it's dry enough to crumble rather than form clods. On heavy clay, work in compost rather than sand.
7. **Add topsoil and amendments.** Spread topsoil so there are at least 4 inches of good soil, ideally 6. Add lime only if the soil test calls for it, and use a starter fertilizer at the rate the test suggests.
8. **Let it settle and rake the final grade.** Water it or wait for rain and give the soil about a week to settle. Then rake it smooth so walks and edging sit about 1/2 inch above the soil.
9. **Firm and moisten the soil.** Roll it lightly so your footprints sink no more than 1/2 inch. Shortly before the sod arrives, water lightly so the soil is moist but not muddy.
10. **Lay the sod the day it arrives.** Sod should go down within 24 hours of being cut. Lay it in a staggered brick pattern with tight seams, roll it lightly, and water it thoroughly.

## Other questions people ask

### Can you lay sod over existing grass?

It's a shortcut that tends to cause problems. The new sod sits on a mat of old grass and weeds instead of soil, so its roots have to grow through that layer before they reach the ground, and every bump in the old lawn shows through. Even the City of Toronto's sodding spec has an existing lawn rototilled and topdressed with topsoil before new sod goes down, rather than laying it on top.

### How much topsoil do I need for sod?

Aim for at least 4 inches of good topsoil under the sod, and 6 inches if you can. Michigan State University Extension calls 6 inches the preferred depth. Purdue Extension works out that about 19 cubic yards spreads 6 inches deep over 1,000 sq ft. If your existing soil is decent you only need to top it up to that depth, not bring in the full amount.

### Do you need to till before laying sod?

On compacted ground, yes. The University of Nebraska recommends working the soil 4 to 6 inches deep before sodding, and Purdue suggests mixing amendments into the top 4 to 6 inches. Don't till when the soil is wet, because it turns into clods, and don't till close to trees, where it cuts through the surface roots.

### Can I kill my lawn with Roundup before laying sod in Ontario?

No. Ontario's cosmetic pesticide ban lists glyphosate among the ingredients homeowners can't use to kill weeds on lawns and gardens. The practical way to clear an old lawn here is to cut it out with a sod cutter or spade and haul it away, then dig out the roots of any perennial weeds, since Michigan State Extension notes that tilling alone won't get rid of grasses like quackgrass.

### How long after preparing the soil can you lay sod?

Once the soil has settled and been raked to its final grade, you can sod right away. Purdue Extension suggests allowing about a week for the soil to settle after grading, and rain or watering speeds that up. Order the sod for the day you're ready, since it should be laid within 24 hours of being cut.

## Sources

1. [Purdue Extension: Establishing a Lawn from Sod (AY-28-W)](https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay/ay-28-w.pdf)
2. [University of Nebraska–Lincoln Turfgrass Science: Establishing Lawns From Sod](https://turf.unl.edu/sites/unl.edu.ianr.agronomy-horticulture.turf/files/media/file/Establishing-lawn-fromsod2012m.pdf)
3. [Michigan State University Extension: Sodding a Lawn (Bulletin E-1490)](https://sanweb.lib.msu.edu/DMC/Ag.%20Ext.%202007-Chelsie/PDF/e1490-1983-print2.pdf)
4. [City of Toronto: TS 5.00 Construction Specification for Sodding (September 2017)](https://www.toronto.ca/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/9941-ecs-specs-roadspecs-TS_5.00_Sep2017.pdf)
5. [Government of Ontario: Pesticides (home lawns and gardens)](https://www.ontario.ca/page/pesticides-home-lawns-and-gardens)
6. [Ontario Dig Authority (formerly Ontario One Call): request a locate](https://ontariodigauthority.ca/)
7. [City of Markham: Water use by-law (lawn watering limits)](https://www.markham.ca/about-city-markham/city-hall/bylaw/water-use)

## Related guides

- [Best time to lay sod in Ontario (and can you lay sod in October?)](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/guides/best-time-to-lay-sod-ontario/)
- [How often to water new sod, and how long it takes to root](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/guides/new-sod-watering-care/)
- [Sod installation cost in Ontario: what you pay for, and why quotes vary](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/guides/sod-installation-cost/)
- [Fall lawn care in Ontario: overseeding, aeration and repair](https://hotivlandscaping.ca/guides/fall-lawn-care-ontario/)